On October 16, 2024, French health authorities issued a precautionary recommendation urging the public to avoid using hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid due to concerns about acute renal failure. The alert comes after four cases of kidney damage were linked to hair styling treatments that contain this ingredient. Learn more about glyoxylic acid in hair products, and what health agency investigations revealed.*

Reports of Acute Renal Failure

Between January and August 2024, four individuals aged 28 to 42 experienced acute renal failure after using hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid. Each of these cases required medical treatment but fortunately, all individuals recovered. 

The incidents were brought to the attention of French authorities, including the National Agency for Food, Environmental, and Occupational Health Safety (ANSES), which initiated an investigation into the renal toxicity of this chemical compound.

Glyoxylic acid is often used as an alternative to formaldehyde, a known carcinogen since 2013. Its chemical properties allow for the straightening or curling of hair, making it popular in certain treatments like the “Brazilian straightening” method. 

When this compound enters the bloodstream through the scalp, however, it can form calcium oxalate crystals, leading to kidney damage. ANSES is currently conducting a detailed review, with findings expected by the end of 2024.

The Wider Impact and Safety Precautions

While only four cases were reported in France, authorities suspect that many more cases may have gone unnoticed. Dr. Juliette Bloch from ANSES emphasized that, in some cases, the body might naturally eliminate these harmful crystals, meaning symptoms of renal failure could be missed or not linked to the hair treatment. 

French authorities, including the General Directorate for Competition, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Control (DGCCRF), have recommended that hair salons and cosmetic retailers halt the use and sale of glyoxylic acid-based products until more is known.

Potential physical reactions to glyoxylic acid can include:

• Abdominal pain
• Nausea and vomiting 
• Diarrhea  
• Fever  
• Back pain

Experts advise people who experience one or more of these symptoms after using the affected hair products to seek immediate medical attention, and inform healthcare professionals about the potential connection to glyoxylic acid. 

International Concerns and Regulatory Outlook

Similar concerns have been raised internationally, with about 20 cases reported in Israel and one in Switzerland. These incidents, alongside France’s, prompted the French Academy of Medicine to recommend targeted alerts to professionals in the beauty and health sectors. 

The Academy emphasized the importance of avoiding these treatments, particularly when the scalp has any lesions, as this increases the risk of the chemical entering the bloodstream.

In light of these concerns, the French cosmetics industry has responded cautiously. The French Federation of Beauty Companies (FEBEA) has stressed the importance of following safety guidelines, stating that current data is insufficient to draw definitive conclusions about glyoxylic acid’s toxicity. 

Major companies, such as L’Oréal, have affirmed that they do not use glyoxylic acid in their products. Depending on the results of ANSES’s review, France may propose changes to European regulations governing cosmetic safety.

*Premium Beauty News with AFP. (2024, October 17). French authorities warn about possible risks of glyoxylic acid in hair products. Premium Beauty News. https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/french-authorities-warn-about,24604 

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